Ceramide formulations decoded: elevating cosmetic products with innovative solutions

Ceramides are essential components of the skin barrier, playing a crucial role in maintaining hydration and protecting against environmental stressors. However, their hydrophobic nature poses significant formulation challenges. Ceramides are insoluble in water. But with the addition of solubilisers, clear formulations such as toners, gels and cleansers can be achieved.

Certain Evonik ceramide types like Ceramide IIIB and Bodyflux^® Olive are easier to solubilise compared to other options such as Ceramide III or Ceramide VI. This variability demands the careful selection of ingredients and processing conditions to ensure optimal performance.

One of the most pressing issues is the tendency of ceramides to recrystallise during storage, which can lead to stability problems and reduced efficacy. Recrystallisation of ceramides can occur when formulation conditions are not adequately controlled. The challenge is further compounded in anhydrous formulations, where monitoring and preventing recrystallisation can be particularly difficult due to the presence of various waxes and pigments.

Formulation strategies

To address these challenges, it is essential to adopt specific formulation strategies. One effective approach is the use of lamellar structures, which can stabilise ceramides and prevent recrystallisation. By incorporating ceramides into emulsions with lamellar phases, formulators can ensure that the ceramides remain solubilised and bioavailable. Using emulsion blends like SK-INFLUX^® Evolve MB or SKINMIMICS^® PRO MB can enhance the stability of ceramides in formulations, allowing for their effective incorporation even in water-based systems.

Additionally, the selection of polar emollients can significantly improve the solubility of ceramides, reducing required processing temperatures and facilitating easier formulation. The more polar the emollient, the better the sphingolipids can be dissolved, which is crucial for achieving a stable product.

Evonik's newly launched SKINLIPIX^® HydraShield represents a groundbreaking advancement in the formulation of ceramides. This innovative product stabilises poorly soluble ceramides in a liquid form, making it easier for formulators to incorporate them into water-based systems without the risk of recrystallisation.

SKINLIPIX^® HydraShield combines plant-oil-based ceramides with natural hydrators in a unique stabilising system, which enhances hydration and strengthens the skin barrier. Clinical studies have shown that formulations containing SKINLIPIX^® HydraShield can increase ceramide levels in the skin by up to 40%, significantly improving skin hydration and barrier function.

Moreover, this product is designed to be cold processable, allowing formulators to create effective formulations without the need for high temperatures, which can compromise the integrity of sensitive ingredients. With a low water activity, SKINLIPIX^® HydraShield does not need added preservatives, enabling short INCI lists for cosmetic formulators.

Conclusion

Formulating with ceramides presents unique challenges due to their low solubility and tendency to recrystallise. However, with the right strategies and innovative products like SKINLIPIX^® HydraShield, formulators can successfully incorporate these essential lipids into a variety of cosmetic formulations. Evonik is committed to providing the expertise and solutions needed to help its partners create effective, stable and consumer-friendly products that harness the full potential of ceramides for skin beauty.

By addressing these formulation challenges head-on, we can ensure that consumers benefit from the remarkable properties of ceramides, leading to healthier, more resilient skin.

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